Alecia's Adventures: sea

Swimming with Sharks in Hawaii

It seems like most people shudder at the idea of swimming with sharks, saying, “That’s crazy!” and, “Aren’t you scared?”. Actually, sharks are some of my favorite animals and swimming with them is always an amazing experience.

As strange as it may be, in all my hours spent surfing and diving off the coast of O’ahu, I have only seen sharks a handful of times and the sharks always stayed far enough away that I could not get a good photo. So, I decided to go on a shark diving tour.

As far as tours go, you have 2 options: cage diving and free diving. I briefly summarize my various cage diving experiences here, but this post focuses more on free diving with these gorgeous animals. Check out the short video of the dive!

Cage Diving with Sharks

Being in a cage is definitely the way to go if you are feeling nervous or are not a strong swimmer. You still get super close to the sharks and sometimes they even bump into the cage, but you are very secure. They can usually fit about 6 people in the cage at once so it can feel a little cramped. The one downside to being in the cage is that the cage is bobbing up and down in the water. You need to hold onto the cage so that you do not hit your face or body on the cage as it moves, this means you are also bobbing up and down and if you are the type to get seasick then it can be unpleasant.

Overall, cage diving is fun, but it’s not the adrenaline rush that free diving with sharks is.

Free diving with Sharks

After all of my experiences cage diving, I desperately wanted to free dive with these beautiful creatures. Our group went with Hawaii Adventure Diving (@hawaiiadventurediving on Instagram) in Hale'iwa. We read reviews and they seemed like the best option. We rented the whole boat for ourselves and charged our Gopros.

Diver Nick in black

Captain Chris and Safety Diver Nick (@thescuubabum on Instagram) were very knowledgable and gave us a bunch of information on the boat ride out to the diving spot. They went over safety and told us all about the sharks that we would get to meet.

Diver Nick’s job is to stay in the water with the group, keeping an eye out. He basically swam around and when a shark got too close, he would put his hand on their nose and guide them to the side. Mostly, the sharks did not get too close so when we would swim a little closer, they tended to dart away to the safety of the darker waters.

Rule 1: Research

Figure out which company you want to go with because there are tons. Do they have good reviews? Do you get a lot of time in the water? Are they concerned with your safety as well as the sharks’ safety?

Find out what type of sharks you will most likely be diving with and read up on them, learn their habits and behaviors.

Listen to the briefing given by the tour group and ask questions.

Rule 2: It’s THEIR House

The ocean is not our home, no matter how badly I wish I could live there. When we go into the ocean, we are entering the animals’ territory, and in this case that happens to be the sharks'. When you go into someone’s home you show respect, this is the same thing. While I believe sharks are greatly misunderstood, they are still wild animals and will act accordingly when they feel threatened. No matter what, do not attempt to corner or antagonize a shark.

Do not reach out the shark, let the shark come to you, if they choose.

Rule 3: It’s All About Body Language

Body language plays a major role in how the sharks will perceive you. Splashing around and swimming erratically gives off the same signals that a sick or weak fish gives off to the shark’s electroreceptors. Kicking your feet aggressively on the surface is not recommended, so kick slowly and with purpose to glide through the water.

Quietly enter and exit the water from the boat, without making splashes.

Rule 4: Fix Gear on the Boat

If your mask begins leaking or your camera is spazzing out you can fix it on the boat. Calmly swim to the boat and climb out of the water before attempting to fix any of your gear. Keep your head in the water and your eyes on the sharks at all times

Keep your head on a swivel and get that 360 degree view constantly.

Rule 5: Do Your Part

The best thing you can do is post pictures and videos of your experience. Getting positive word out to your friends, particularly non-divers, is important for shark and ocean conservation.

Sharks keep fish populations in check which is vital for the ecosystem. They eat efficiently, going after the weak and old fish which keeps fish populations healthy.

Sharks’ presence intimidates other marine animals and can keep them from overgrazing a certain region. For instance, without tiger sharks the sea turtles would spend all of their time eating sea grass which leads to habitat loss and marine populations decline.

Mahalos, Alecia <3

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In beach, dive

How to Snorkel Like a Pro

Snorkeling is one of the most exciting things you can do in the ocean, and even in fresh water. Once you know how to swim the rest will come naturally. Exploring the beautiful oceans or checking out some fresh water dive spots will open a whole new world. There is so much to see underwater and this guide will help you get there confidently.

Safety First

Water, and the ocean especially, can be unpredictable. Undercurrents, waves, and certain marine creatures can make for a bad time. Do a little research about the area before you get there. What kind of animals live there? How strong are the currents? What is the weather like?

When you first get to the beach, sit on the sand for a few minutes and watch the water. Look for where the current is going out and check which area has the rougher waves. Plan where you will enter and exit the water.

Some sea creatures have awesome defense mechanisms and will not hesitate to use them, especially if they feel threatened. Keep your distance and go to a lifeguard if you get hurt.

Lastly, save your energy. Too many people exhaust themselves in the water, forgetting they still have to swim back. Once you are back on the sand, drink plenty of water to rehydrate.

Pro tip: Use vinegar on jellyfish stings-not urine-the lifeguards will likely have some vinegar on hand. Be sure to get all the barbs/stingers out of your skin right away by using a credit card to scrape along your skin.

Gear

Don't forget your camera! If you do not have an underwater camera you can rent one at most dive shops, which is what I recommend, or you can buy super cheap ones at many drug stores or gas stations.

When it comes to snorkeling gear, you get what you pay for. If you’re not very experienced or only need to use the gear for a family vacation then the US Divers brand at Walmart will work perfectly. If you plan on getting into snorkeling as a hobby then I recommend going to a diving store and getting something on the cheaper end of the spectrum to start out with and moving up accordingly. I do not recommend renting your gear because it can be pricey and it is not always in great shape.

Make sure it fits! Try it on in the store, make sure you like how the mask feels on your face and check that the fins do not cut into your heel or slide off easily.

After you snorkel, be sure to rinse your gear with fresh water and dry it to keep it in good condition.

Pro tip: The best mask anti-fog is a 50/50 mixture of baby shampoo and water. Wipe a few drops into your mask and you’re good to go!

Practice

When you first get to the beach be sure to practice in the shallow, calm waters. Figuring out your breathing pattern can be tricky if you are not used to breathing through the snorkel. Staying in shallow water allows you to get used to your gear while allowing you the safety of being able to stand up if you accidentally get water in your tube or if you get a little scared. Make sure none of your hair is under the mask, this causes leakage.

Remember to always remain calm. Panicking in water is extremely dangerous. Just pop your head out of the water and take a deep breath to calm yourself.

Pro tip: When you get water in your snorkel just blow air out of your mouth and into the snorkel really hard to push the water out. I always feel like a whale when I do this.

Avoid Dirty Water

In Hawaii, we learn not to swim in the ocean if the water has low visibility. This is for two reasons. First, murky water is prime real estate for predators to hide in while hunting for prey. I am not afraid of sharks, but I will also not put myself in the position to be confused as prey when the visibility is low.

Secondly, if you plan on snorkeling in Hawaii then you should know that O’ahu has leptospirosis in the fresh water and dirt. If it has recently rained know that the rain will cause the bacteria to seep into the ocean and nobody wants that.

Also, why would you want to swim in dirty water anyway? You cannot see anything!

Look But Don’t Touch

An animal's natural curiosity should never be interpreted as friendly behavior.

When you are in the water, you are in THEIR home, respect it. You are going to see some awesome sea creatures and corals during your underwater journey. Corals are living things, stepping on coral can kill the coral polyps and harm the other animals living in the coral. If you must stand up, look for the sandy areas.

While some critters may swim close to you, do not touch them. We need to respect these animals and watch from afar for their safety as well as yours. Also, disturbing them will most likely cause the animal to swim away. I recommend a distance of 6 feet or more.

Your sunscreen could harm the reef. Some ingredients in your sunblock can kill or bleach coral reefs. Use a sunscreen that is “reef safe” and has been tested biodegradable. I recommend Natty Block Suncare or Badger Sunscreen.

Have Fun

The number one reason that people snorkel is to enjoy the beauty of our underwater world. There is so much to see from the many creatures to the crazy colors of the reef, the ocean is a thing of beauty.

I do not really think of snorkeling as a physical activity but more of a meditation. You are focused on your breathing and the movements of your body, how the water flows and how the fish are swimming. It is therapeutic. Whatever you get from the experience, be sure to enjoy it.

Mahalos,

Alecia <3

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In beach, beach bag

An O'ahu Secret: The Mermaid Cave

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In climb, crouching lion

O'ahu Mini Hike: Crouching Lion

Crouching Lion gets its name from the shape of a lion that the rocks form at the top. It is actually part of a larger hiking trail, that loops around the Pu’u Manamana mountain ridge. This hike takes roughly 30 minutes to reach the peak so it’s pretty quick.

Legend of Kauahi

It is always fun to learn a little something about the hikes I do. I usually find out some interesting stories wile researching for a planned hike and like others I have done, the Crouching Lion Hike has a legend behind it.

The story goes that the demigod, Kauahi, was sent from Tahiti to watch over Kahana Bay. Ancient Hawaiians had never seen a lion and actually thought he was a dog. Even though Kauahi wished to explore O’ahu, he never left his spot and eventually, he began to turn to stone. One day, Pele’s sister, Hiiaka sang to Kauahi. Her voice was so sweet that he tried to stand, breaking the strong roots that bound him. Unfortunately, he could go no further than a crouch before he was stuck, forever guarding the valley and bay.

Finding the Trail Head

Finding the entrance to the trail is easier than it seems. If you walk along the mountainside of the road, Trout Farm Road to your back, you will see the trail beginning just after the “Do Not Pass” sign. There are no trail markers but you can easily see where the footpath is.

Note: Do not park on Trout Farm Road, they will have you towed.

Short Trail

Since the trail is not clearly marked with ribbon or anything, the idea is to keep going up. You’ll see remnants of the trail and parts where it has worn away, but do not worry, it is pretty easy to navigate. You will walk through thick brush under the tree canopy for a ways, until you are out in the open. Strangely, the path becomes more defined the higher you get, once you’re out in the open, it is unmistakable. You will be increasing elevation rather quickly as you ascend.
Once you are free from the forest, you follow the dirt path under a cliff of sharp lava rocks, you might have to crouch as you pass this part. After this point, you can see the “crouching lion” (I did not get a good photo of it). If you choose to continue, this part is more tricky and dangerous. The loose rocks and dirt do not make for good footholds.

Spectacular View

From the peak, you can see the various blue shades of Kahana Bay and the small city of Ka’a’awa below. The greenery on the mountains is amazing, as usual, and from the height you can really take in all the scenery of the Windward side.

Please be safe and remember to pick up your trash so other can enjoy the beauty.

Mahalos,
Alecia <3

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In beach, chinamans hat island

Exploring Mokoli'i Island (aka Chinaman's Hat)

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In coast, Hawaii

Koko Head Stairs of Doom

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In haiku stairs, Hawaii

Stairway to Heaven: Oahu's Famously Illegal Hike

Preface: This trail is not open to the public, trespassing can/will result in being fined and/or arrested. Besides being illegal, this hike is extremely dangerous. Read my safety disclaimer.

The Ha'ikū Stairs trail is the most famous hike on Oahu. The 3,922 rickety steps to the top of the mountain earned it the name “Stairway to Heaven”.

This trail’s reputation for beautiful views is overshadowed by it’s notorious illegality. The hefty fines and threat of jail time do not stop hikers from attempting this dangerous climb.

We all know the rumors surrounding this hike. I know people who had to be airlifted out after falling down the mountain, which is not uncommon. We hear the news stories about the people who never come back down, yet we see hikers on the steps every time we drive on the H-3 freeway. I have been wanting to do this hike for years but always put it off because of how dangerous it is and because I did not want to get arrested. After hearing that there were plans to tear them down, I decided it was time to check this off my bucket list.

Other than my normal hiking gear, I brought the following:

-workout gloves for the slippery, rusty handrails

-change of clothes because it rains constantly on this side

-headlamp/flashlight

The Trailhead

We decided the best time to be up there was during sunrise, so we met in the neighborhood at 4:30AM. On the way to the trailhead we passed 2 girls who had turned around at the sight of the security guard, these girls relayed to us that a man in one of the houses was taking photos of them and telling them to leave. We trudged on. Not long after, an old man came out of his house and I was sure he was going to threaten us, instead he told us to have fun and be safe.

We made it to the “No Trespassing” sign, climbed around it, and began to walk down the road when we saw a vehicle at the trailhead. The guard got out of his car and told us that by continuing we would be fined $600 or spend up to 6 months in jail. That did not stop our group, even though I strongly considered turning around, and as we continued the guard wished us luck and a safe journey.

Still dark, but with the full moon over us, the stairs were pretty easy to see and within a few minutes I was already taking off my hoodie to keep from overheating.

1st Platform

The part to the first platform took us about 30 minutes and the steps to it were relatively steep. In some areas I climbed the stairs like a ladder as it stretched straight up. This is where the headlamps came in handy, the stairs were harder to see when you had to look directly up. We also had to climb over the area that was damaged in last year’s storm, it was a little sketchy in the dark, but not bad on the way back. We stopped to rest and take in the sights on the platform. At this point we were only a third of the way up. The lights from the sleeping city below us shined from the high vantage point.

2nd Platform

This platform took us about 20 minutes to reach and was not as steep as the first section. There would be a stretch of steep steps and the a stretch of flat steps. We were lucky to come across another group of hikers here who offered us gummy bears as they danced to loud music. We sat for a little while to drink water and cool down.

Heaven

Overall, it took us 1.5 hours to get to the top. The last stretch of the stairs was easier than the previous ones, it was more flat and less steep. The rails at this point were more narrow. We could see the flashlights from groups in front of us who had already made it to the top. The sun was beginning to rise so we went much faster up this part. After moving at a consistent pace and working up a serious sweat from the climb, I had to put my layers back on and wear a beanie to keep warm above the cloud line. There were a few dozen people already hanging out in and on the old, WWII radio station. Cameras were set up on tripods and some hikers had cracked open some beers.

Watching the sun rise through the mist over the island was stunning, the colors were so brilliant and getting to see this unfold from what seemed like the top of the world was unreal. I could see the Mokes off Lanikai, Chinaman’s Hat, Mount Olomana’s 3 peaks, and Kaneohe’s incredible sandbar and reef. Unfortunately, the clouds concealed most of the Ko’olau mountains so I could not see what was behind us, but I have heard it is just as incredible. I could not take enough photos.

The Descent

Going down was much easier than the going up had been. It was foggy so the rails were a little more wet but it was not nearly as physically difficult and we did not need to stop for photos this time. Most areas we were able to go down like it was a normal staircase, but other areas we had to go down backwards, like climbing a ladder.

Myself and another girl in our group were anxious to get back down, but since the others were taking more photos, we decided to just go ahead. We tagged along behind another group of hikers and they told us that their friend had already made it down and had been told by the guard that police were coming. We decided to stick with this group to stay updated on the situation at the bottom of the stairs. As we continued, more hikers joined us and it was not long before we could see the bottom.

Stealth Mode

We could eventually see the guard’s car parked in the clearing and parked next to him was a cop. We all looked at each other, wondering what to do. We continued down, talking about how we could get out of the ticket/jail time, what excuses would work, if we should just ditch the stairs and climb down the mountain. We saw the cop car drive after a group of hikers who had gotten down just before us. Two brave souls decided to venture out and check if the cop had truly gone. Once we saw that we were in the clear the 15 of us who had accumulated on the stairs made a mad dash past the guard and into the bamboo forest behind him, disregarding the trail. We were told by the others that the guard said the fine was now $10,000 or 6 years in prison.

After walking through the bamboo forest, we had made it to an open area and found a fence with a hole in it leading into more forest. We crawled through the hole, one by one, to get back under the cover of trees. All the while, one guy holding the fence up and telling the others to hurry before the cops came back. I felt like I was in a war zone. We walked for several minutes before the line of people stopped suddenly and the guy in front told us to keep quiet. We all stood silently in the bamboo, not daring to speak. At last, we began to move forward, cautiously. We came out of the forest behind a rundown building with rusty machinery covered in vines. Nobody knew where we were. Some guys in the group were in the military and had experience with land navigation, these dudes ended up getting us back to the original trail after our little detour in the bamboo.

We had made it to an open road where we all naturally walked under the tree line. Someone shouted, “Vehicle!” and we all darted for the cover of the trees. Turned out to be nothing, but we were all pretty scared of getting caught. Once we could see the end of the trail and civilization the whole group broke into a run for the fence. We climbed around the barbed wire and wooden blocks and were finally safe. My heart had been pounding like crazy, but we made it.

The Experience

I am glad I finally did this hike. It was scary, it was strenuous, but it was an adventure. From the fear of falling to the fear of getting arrested this hike was a wild ride. The views from the stairs were so surreal and the climbing made my legs feel like jello. It was cold but the constant moving made you hot and sweaty. This hike is NOT for beginners or anyone with a fear of heights. The stairs were pretty sturdy and very few steps were loose or broken. This hike was wet, cold, slippery, and exhilarating. Chances are that I will not do this hike again because I probably would not reflect so positively on it if we had been caught.

Thoughts on Illegal Hiking

I have pretty strong feelings about all the illegal hikes on Oahu, especially after being stopped on numerous trails. Countless hikes have been closed for numerous reasons and hikers are arrested or made to pay fines when caught. I feel that this hike, among others, needs to be reopened to the public, regardless of the dangers or reasons behind their closures. When hiking, we inherently take on multiple risks and we do so willingly. I knew that there was a slim chance I would not make it down the mountain, I know this every time I put on my hiking shoes. If people are willing to, literally, go off the beaten path to avoid being arrested for hiking a trail, then we would be better off opening the hike for public use. Many people have perished trying to complete this hike without being caught. This is such a popular hike that the City and County of Honolulu could make money by charging hikers a fee, having them sign a waiver, and repairing the steps. Instead, they choose to fine the hundreds a week that attempt this climb. Closing trails does not deter those with a spirit of adventure, it simply makes it more dangerous to hike.

Mahalos,
Alecia <3

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In ATV, beach

Kualoa Ranch ATV Tour

This tour is a super fun way to explore the valleys of the private nature reserve on the Windward side of Oahu. The ATV tour takes you through the cattle ranch located in the valley while the tour guide explains the different movie scenes that have been filmed on location.

The Ranch

I have to say that views here are amazing. The green backdrop of the mountains to our backs and the ocean spread out in front of us took my breath away. I was so excited to get started.

We signed up for the very last 1 hour tour, which ended up being a good amount of time and the lighting from the sun being low meant it was not too hot. After checking in with the friendly staff, we decided to walk around a little to kill time. We watched the horses and donkeys running around the pen and stables as we walked. We struck up a conversation with one of the handlers who was happy to answer all the questions I had about the history of the ranch and the animals.

Scenic Tour

It was my first time riding an ATV so I was a bit nervous. The safety video went over how to ride the ATV and I ended up getting the hang of it right away. We were handed helmets and eye protection before hopping on. I recommend bringing your own sunglasses so you do not have to wear the goggles they give you and be sure to wear clothes you do not mind getting dirty in.

As we rode up and down some hills we passed plenty of cows and calfs (so cute!) just chilling under trees and even on our path. We stopped at a couple scenic points for photo ops and the tour guide stopped at every movie scene to talk a little bit about it.

The ride was very comfortable and relaxed, we took a few sharp turns and ran over some bumpy ground which added to the adventure. Driving under thick canopies of trees and then out in the open under the sun and through muddy areas was so much fun. Definitely do not wear white, like I did.

Movie Scenes and WWII

Of the various movie spots we saw, such as a big foot print from Godzilla and a spot from 50 First Dates, my favorite was the log from Jurassic Park with the sign in front of it. I had to get a photo before continuing. We drove up a hill and came to stop at an old WWII bunker dug into the mountain. Inside, there were photos of the various movies, but even more exciting were the historical artifacts. They had set up portions of the bunker to show you what it would have looked like during the War. There was a sleeping area with a cot and various work spaces. I only wish I took more photos of it all.

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In bay, beach

Snorkeling Hanauma Bay

This beautiful state park is a popular spot for snorkeling as it showcases Hawaii’s underwater ecosystem perfectly. The bay is protected for marine conservation.

Whenever people come to visit, I always take them here. This area is great for people of all ages and beginner snorkelers. The lifeguards are attentive and the information available to you is so helpful. Even if you decide not to snorkel, the reef just under the surface gives you something to look at while you rest on the sand.

After purchasing tickets, first-time visitors are required to watch a short video in the theater upon entry. This video highlights the importance of maintaining the beautiful reef and it’s inhabitants, as well as giving safety tips. While this video is informative, it is short and definitely answers some questions you may have.

The walk down the hill to the beach is not too bad and gives a great view of the water. After a long day of snorkeling, many people opt to spend the extra few dollars to catch the tram back up the hill.

They have rentals for snorkeling gear and life vests. The staff working at the various snack and rental stands are super helpful and can give you plenty of information about the fish and corals you see under the water.

In the Water

The reef covers the majority of the area underwater and it stays relatively shallow until you are out quite a ways from the beach. The average adult will be able to stand in most spots. Many portions of the reef are quite tall and provide a natural barrier from the deeper sea.

Standing on the reef is not recommended as you could easily injure yourself on the sharp corals, but you could also damage the living coral and the critters living in it. There are plenty of sandy areas to stand in between the rocky parts.

Floating along the surface will give you a wide area to view and allow you to spot anything that might catch your eye. When you do see something of interest you can always slow down to get a closer look, just be sure to give a respectful amount of space to the animals.

Thoughts

When I was a child I remember when you could buy fish food from the stands and have a grand old time sprinkling it in the water while fish gathered around you. Since then, it has been realized that feeding the fish that way was harmful to the ecosystem. These wild animals need to know how to hunt on their own while having a healthy fear of humans. Though you cannot attract the fish to you with food anymore, I find that it is so much more amazing to watch them up close while they nibble at rocks and chase each other around.

Mahalos,

Alecia <3